Oct.19.2010, Peloponnese

the view from Agamemnon’s palace

0800 blue sky, white clouds, 19 C.  Got up and went downstairs to the TV room in order not to disturb the others until 9.  Richard made breakfast.  Great food!  1000 Washed another shirt.  1030  Left for Nafplio.  Went through the Kantia shortcut – the road is good today but lots of signs of dirt/rocks on the road from the storm the other night.  I am driving.  1100  Into Nafplio, seaside cafe table for Greek coffees (Kathy and I) and hot chocolate (Richard and Debbie).  Then down to the internet cafe.  No messages from Chrystal and Lindsay so they must be doing alright.  Sent them a note and one to Anne and Frank S.

1200 The sky is threatening.  We head to Mycenae anyways.  1230  Hard to believe this was Agamemnon’s capital city in 1500 BC and it has been occupied since 3000 BC.  Richard thinks that the land has risen since then (glacial rebound) so the harbour may have been much closer than now.  Very impressive site, but also many steep climbs and descents.  After that, the site’s archeological museum.  It includes a replica of Agamemnon’s golden mask which was reportedly found by Schliemann in a grave shaft here.

Mixed blue sky and dark clouds, 23 C.  There must have been a shower while we were in the museum because the car windshield is spotted.  Down the hill to the “Treasury” which is a beehive burial tomb.  But the burial site must have been down a darkened tunnel – rock filled room behind the do not enter wash out warning tape.  Saw some of it with the help of a camera flash.  While we were touring the top of the hill, a restaurant had left a flyer on the car, very good prices, less than the menu as it turns out.  So back into the town of Mycenae and a parking stall of our own under the grape arbor.  I had the special spanakopita which came with french fries.  Deb had a variation of spaghetti with meat but no tomato sauce.  Richard & Kathy had a moussaka and shared a Greek salad.

1645  Left Mycenae and took a back road to Nafplio which was better than the main road, with no traffic and bypassed the detour through Argos.  We stopped in Nafplio and went for ice cream and Deb’s milkshake.  East to the shortcut and south to Irae Mare by 1815.  Shower, journal writing, clothes washing.  No beer in the hotel tonight at all as last night’s students finished it off.

Tuesday evening discussion is on the topic of things that need further investigation:

  • Schliemann the erratic archeologist or ?
  • the Iliad, Homer
  • sea levels at the time of Agamemnon, glacial rebound or expanding estuary filled in?
  • Ilioupersis written by Homer
  • Palladion
  • revisit Greek mythology including heroes like Hercules
  • Trojan swastika
  • Agamemnon, Troy – what date?  earthquake, fire at Mycenae at 1300 BC
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