Oct.16.2010, Peloponnese

fortess island in front of Nafplio harbour

0800 blue sky with some clouds, ~17 C.  Good morning, birds are chirping, sunshine, cool – it’s nice on the balcony.  The girls report that the beds are too hard.  Debbie claims her bed was lumpy and her pillow too.  She’s looking at my bed covetously.  I won’t tell her that my bed was flat and as soft as a sheet of plywood.  0900  Hotel breakfast.  One word – industrial.  Coffee is OK.  Two types of cereal flakes that might be corn – golden and dark brown.  Other than the colour they are the same.  The fruit juice tastes like it has been made up out of a powder.  The milk was suspiciously thin.  The hard boiled eggs had been cooked last night and kept in a cold fridge.  Yesterday’s bread?  Oranges may be local produce and are good.  Last night’s supper and today’s breakfast are set up for bus tours – it’s not Greek food and it’s not very good.

1130 blue sky with some clouds, rising to 28 C.  Left Irae taking the back road to Epidaurus, east then north.  After passing through Iria town, ended up on a narrow winding road with a high climb into and over the mountains.  Down the other side then some question about where we were but carried on anyway and found Asklipiio tourist site.  1st stop, the theatre, and it was magnificent!  Still in very good shape.  While there, a voice trained woman singer sang some sort of classic tune and it just made a wonderful sound.  At that time we were very close to the top of the seats and could hear her clearly and perfectly.  Amazing acoustics.  Then into the museum, then a wander through the archeological dig site which was quite open – only a few areas roped off.  No whistle for standing on ancient stones!  We saw the old hospital site and the sacred well now surrounded by a stainless steel guard rail even though it is only 1 ft. deep, filled with debris.  North to the sacred road where sick people came in from the harbour which is quite far away – I estimate it at 10 km. east.  That would be quite a walk through the mountains if you’re not well.  Hot and sunny now, should have worn my hat.

1500 large dark clouds arrived, short shower.  Went west to Nafplio.  Once around the block in the old city quarter then parked beside the ocean.  There’s a little fortress island just offshore.  All the seaside tables were for bars only, no real restaurant food so we walked inland a bit searching and located an enclosed square with numerous cafes and restaurants.  We stopped at a Greek/Italian place.  I had lamb Socrates with spiced sauce, rice, vegetables and french fries – they seem to accompany meals everywhere in Greece, and Zeos beer.  Debbie had spaghetti Bolognese.  Very good food.  After supper, walked out of the square and found an internet shop.  Got a message from Chrystal, everything is good with them.  Their resort in Iraklion Crete is costing them 15E – they got an upgrade to an apartment with kitchenette and living room, 2 floors and someone is buying them free drinks!  They’re doing better than we are!!  Then to the local super market and picked up supplies for breakfast.

1830 Left Nafplio.  I opted for a different route going back – east towards Asklipiio until I found a road to Irae that I had seen earlier today.  From the turn off it was 15 km. to Irae according to the road signs.  There was some concern as it was marked as an unpaved track on our road map.  But it was great – paved, relatively wide, only 1 town on the way (Kantia) and almost no traffic.  We came out at the ocean about 5 km. west of our resort.

1930  Back in the room, still no coffee maker, toaster, knife or dish towel.  Rick went to talk to Mary at the front desk.  I joined them downstairs.  She said these things get stolen from the rooms.  She finally found a coffee pot for us and promised knives would be delivered tomorrow.  2000 I decided to go for a swim in the pool under the stars.  Rick came down and watched over me.  No pool lights or deck lights, so it was dark.  Water is relatively cool.  3 laps and I was out.  1/2 moon, a planet that might be Jupiter, and might have seen Cassiopea and the little dipper.

2100  warm, windy.  Richard and I went back out to the car to find his sunglasses.  Then into the games / TV room.  Watched a little Greek soccer, then started a chess game.  An unusual game – the first pieces off the board were my rook and his bishop, no pawns lost at that point.  Finally we stopped the game when I asked him to explain one of this moves, a knight sacrifice to break open the pawn defense on one side of the board.

2130 Back up to the room, filled in my journal.  Checked the map for possible trip tomorrow.  Debbie turned most of the lights out and we called it a night at 2200.

Today – Jim drove all day and Debbie rode shotgun.  She nodded off in the car and then flatlined on low blood sugar in Nafplio before we found supper.  1 bun and 1 sip of wine and she was as right as rain again.  Asklipiion = healing center, god of healing.   Morpheus puts you to sleep then Asklipiio asks what’s wrong and heals you.

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